The first part of the trail is well marked; many bridges allow you crossing the main river. After Mingulu Brok, a tributary coming from the left, you have to cross early in the morning; evening time, the water level makes the crossing dangerous.
Money candy pen!

In the Hushe Valley, do not be surprised if you are asked for money.
Is it expeditions that started to give to locals… we wondered… how come they take us for ATM? ... Anyway…

Get ready to be harassed by the local population, everything here has a price: photos, the passage on a path, saying hello… it is terrible, you are rich we are poor ... blah blah blah!

Worst of all is Hushe, they charge you a lot because you don’t stay for long. If you don’t have any money to give, expect not be well received anywhere. If you listen to them you might return to Kaplu naked.

Refuse politely…

Porters and guide:
From 1000 to 1200 rps / day
Negotiate for porters, they can easily get excited on prices. In 2007 the official rate was 300 rps per stage without food, 350 rps including food. There are 4 stages return up to Nangmah , add 2 extras for the base camp.

TRZ: Trek in restricted zone. It is restricted because of the proximity to the Indian frontline.
To trek in this sector you need a permit. You can get it either through the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad or through an agency. It is also compulsory to come accompanied.

Don’t believe Pakistanis or the inhabitants of the Kande Hushe area when they say it is an open zone. To tell the truth 100% of the people we met before we went there told us there was no problem!
It doesn’t seem to be the point of view of the authorities who are stationed at Kaplu check post. There has even been one person who told us right by the military that the zone was open but they were not aware!
Up to now there was a possibility to cut the pear in two. The military let you pass without a permit, provided that you are accompanied by a guide. It is not a guarantee they will let you go though, like the weather it might change from one day to another.

The thing, you’d better not get caught by a representative of the Ministry of Tourism or by a soldier on the other side who doesn’t share the same point of view. At best, your guide risks losing his license and you having a bad experience.

Trying to cross at night, illegally, is a very bad idea… unless you want a visa extension for free and stay in prison for a few years.
The safest bet is to hold a licence.

To get there:
From Skardu go to Kaplu. Many buses run all day, it is a 4 to 5 hours drive from 80 to 150 rps. Then, take a passenger jeep for Kande early in the morning (100 rps). It is possible to organize a vehicle, many inhabitants of Hushe ort Kande don’t want to wait for the next day to leave, and sometimes they organize a special sharing the cost.
Leaving Kaplu, go through the check post, show the permit, fill up the books…

For the way back, you must get up early and take the jeep which leaves from New Kande, waiting beside the unsealed road around 6 o'clock in the morning. If there is none, wait for a vehicle coming from Hushe and negotiate prices.

To sleep:
In Old Kande, a guesthouse. It costs 250 rps / night for a room. It is possible to eat for 100 to 150 rps per meal.

Best time : juin to september

Resupplying : Skardu

Day 1

Departure: 3000 m Arrival: 4000 m -200 m + 1200 m Distance: 13 km Length: 6 to 8 hours

Exit Old Kande going up the road towards Hushe. You can see the remains of one part of the old village of Kande which was destroyed 20 years ago by a mudslide. It was partially rebuilt on the new site of New Kande. After 1 km, at a bend, Masherbrum is visible at the bottom of the valley; on the right is Nangmah, and its impressive cliffs.

Go down to the river just before New Kande, and cross the bridge before climbing on the other side. Reach slowly the tributary on the right. Cross on a new bridge, and go up right after, don’t take the channel but cross it and continue to climb. 20 minutes walking up to Zhalay, a camp with a few huts. At a junction, turn left and cross the bridge. The following part is spectacular; the path runs along a cliff which measures around 2000 m!

Beware of falling rocks. The trail winds up to Jurtey, huts again with beautiful green areas. Go on and just before a waterfall coming from the left, cross again the watercourse. The following part is desert on more than one kilometre. When you arrive on a flat part, a new junction, turn left, cross the gate and go on the bridge. You are facing a forest of willows. Some streams come from the left, the water is clear. A little farther the sight is beautiful, it is Mingulu Brok, a flat and green valley bottom contained in a vice.

After 20 minutes, go nearby huts and take a left approaching cliffs. A small slope comes before another open space. There is a 25 min walk before arriving in front of a beautiful river which comes from the left. After 12pm its crossing may be a problem. Go up 100 m and cross the river where it divides into several branches, facing several cairns. Continue on the path; go through a small depression full of scree slope. Another slope on the other side, 20 minutes later Nangmah camp appears at the foot of giant cliffs.

Water : The camp is crossed by a creek

Day 2

Nangmah - K6 Base Camp Departure: 4000 m Arrival: 4500 m -0 m + 500 m Distance: 5 km Length: 3 to 5 hours

Cross the plain, keeping on the left side. At the end is the terminal moraine of the glacier. The path goes up the left. The slope is regular. 500 m later it climbs steep; there are several junctions, try to stay on the left. The path follows the lateral moraine. 30 minutes more and it leads at a bend (many cairns) to a point of view of where it is possible to see the K6. Continue along the lateral moraine, and 45 minutes later, stop in the middle of a meadow just before the glacier coming from the left.

Water : A spring in the camp.

Day 3

K6 Base Camp - Kande Departure: 4500 m Arrival: 3000 m -1700 m + 500 m Distance: 18 km Length: 8 to 12 hours

Go back the same way.