Camps up to 4000 m. Less than 15km/day, river crossing, glacier stone walking , scree slopes.
A pass little visited, above 4500 m, for one of the most beautiful mountain panorama in Pakistan. From Rakaposhi, you'll have a view up to Haramosh as well as Diran and Malubiting. Far from the most famous treks in the country, it is also an opportunity to discover a valley rarely visited, 2 small hours of Gilgit. Unfortunately, I could not reach Rakhan Gali. In late May, the pass was too snowy, I stopped 150 m below, pushed in a metre of snow!
Short stories about Bagrot valley
The Bagoros or Bagorés: We were very surprised coming back to Gilgit to see all our Pakistani friends laugh when we spoke about Bagrot Valley. By digging a little we soon learned what the reason was.
This valley is famous throughout Pakistan for jokes on the light spirit of these people. Like the Belgian jokes in France or the French ones in Belgium, they bring smiles across the country. Far from this consideration, Bagrot Valley is magnificent. A perfect valley, crowned by the southern flanks of Rakaposhi and Diran, its people are generous and far from the reputation they have in the rest of Pakistan.
From Chira to Gargo, there is only the glacier crossing that may be problematic. It is used by the inhabitants of Bagrot to access the summer pastures located in the upper part of the valley. The climb to the Pass is not difficult without snow.
Guides and porters : In Bagrot, we met one person speaking English! For guide the better is to hire him in Gilgit. Many inhabitants of Chirah will offer you to come with you as porters. For a guide, it costs from 1000 to 1200 rps / day. For a porter, when we asked in Chirah they did not seem to know the price! We paid the 2007 rate, 350 rps per stage including food. They didn’t seem to be aware of how many stages there were; we set 4 up to Gargo return, add two extras return for Rakhan Gali. If you want to go up to Hanuchal through the Rakhan Gali, with more than 3 porters it can be problematic, organize a change of porters at the pass, count 6 to 8 stages. Inquire in Gilgit.
To get there : In Pakistan, when you get off the beaten track, it is problematic! For Bagrot we sought transport for a half day, foaming bus Gilgit stations. Finally we went in a jeep which was going anyway to Chirah for 250 rps / person. A special costs around 1500 rps one way. The solution would be to go to Danyore by Suzuki or bus and then take a passenger jeep that leaves between 11 am and 15 pm.
The trouble is that we still don’t know where it leaves from. If you choose this option expect to be told anything and everything: “There is no jeep, it already left, you were misinformed etc”. Bagrot is in Hunza (Pakistani people who see a lost tourist think that he can only go to Hunza, and with all the kindness of the world, they send you there!)…. And perhaps a “yes, the jeep is there and it leaves in 10-15 minutes!”
To sleep : There is a hotel in one of the most spectacular settings of Pakistan. Inevitable, it is at the foot of a series of water falls, the highest measuring around 100 m. Just a flat, it is often closed because of the few tourists who come here. Contact the owner Mr Gulam Abbas (he speaks English): tel 03355110090 - mobile: 03465222441. The room in a bungalow costs 500 rps, and 100 rps for the tent. They cook for you, 100 rps per meal per person in 2007. If the hotel is closed, you will always have a field for planting your tent; also plan enough food.
From mid July to mid September.
Shopping: in Gilgit.
Day1
Chirah - Gargo Departure: 2550 m Arrival: 3500 m -100 m + 1050 m Distance: 13 km Length: 5 to 7 hours
Exit Chirah following the path that goes up the main valley. Later on, you guess the trail that climbs along the cliff side, follow it. The south face of Rakaposhi unfolds gradually. The path goes back down shifting right at the river. The view over the Bagrot upper valley is superb, a suite of 7000 peaks. Reaching the river, go up shifting on the left up to a bridge 500 meters further. Cross it and continue on the right bank.
After you leave populated areas, the slope becomes steeper. The atmosphere remains pleasant forest in a junipers forest up to the lateral moraine. A desert parts precedes the glacier, watch out for falling rocks. The crossing of the Burche glacier lasts a good hour. Move slowly on the other side, following the trail dotted with cairns. Right at the glacier exit, there is a water source near a lone pine. A little further, the atmosphere becomes pleasant in a coniferous forest. After 1 good km, you get the first point of view over Bilchar Dobani North West Face and Gargo. Cross the stream and set your tent in the meadow or if you are asked, on one of the huts roofs.
Gargo might mean fly in Shina? The camp is the most horrible that we have ever seen regarding the influx of these dipterans! Thousands of sticky flies! The evening, we barely had the time to enter our tent and to close it, there were already dozens inside. It was a pure nightmare.
Water : Just above the camp, a good spring.
Day 2
Gargo - Rakhan Gali - Gargo Departure: 3500 m Arrival: 4550 m - 0 m + 1050 m Distance return: 12 km Length: 6 to 8 hours
Get up early and go up the valley overlooked by the beautiful side of Bilchar Dobani (it is not the summit). A trail goes on the left in the forest and climbs gently. At the end of wood continue in the same direction and move to the bottom of the valley. After 1:30 to 2 hours, cross Agubsar Dar, a camp at the bottom of Bilchar Dobani, just enough space to put a tent in this impressive circus. The following part is steep, several options for reaching Rakhan Gali, which is slightly to the right in the palm. Go up on one of the mounds on your left (avoid the avalanche corridors) up to a flatter part and turn right, go through a trough and go up to the pass. Distances are deceptive, count 2 to 3 hours. At the pass you can see a range of 7000 peaks, from Rakaposhi to Haramosh. Go back on the same path.
Water : A stream in Agubsar Dar camp.
Day 3
Gargo - Chira Departure: 3500 m Arrival: 2550 m -1050 m + 100 m Distance: 13 km Length: 4 to 6 hours
Go back to Chira
Come back to the KKH (Indus valley) Day 1 & 2
Departure: 4550 m Arrival: 1700 m -2850 m + 100 m Distance: 13 km Length: 25 km
Down a slope. Joining the Darchan camp, the high summer pasture of Hanuchal. Possibility to have water. The next day go down to Hanuchal, it's a long day. Warning, the Haramosh area is like the Rupal Gah area, you are not specially welcome (See text Rupal). In Hanuchal, you're on the road to Skardu, take one of thel vehicles who're going to Gilgit.
WARNING Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.
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