Camps up to 5000 m. Less than 25 km/day, river crossing, glacier ice walking, dangerous scree slopes.
It is a legendary glacier, which is also one of the easiest to reach in Pakistan. The treks options are great, choosing between a return trip to Gushesham camp, or crossing Werthum and Yuksh passes, a playground at the height of the Karakoram. It is an ice tongue of 60 kilometre long to discover without moderation.
20 years ago, the portion of road between Yuzben and Janalabad did not exist. To reach the summer pastures of Yashpirt, the people of Passu were going through the valley coming over Yuzben. If the summer pastures of Yashpirt belong to them, those facing are the property of the inhabitants of Hussaini. Regarding Patundas, it is Gulkin villagers that graze their herds.
The crossing of the glacier is difficult, it should not be underestimated. The following part is moderate to easy up to Gushesham. The weakness of Batura is that the return trip is via the same route, it is long, too long and little varied …
It is possible to cross the white glacier at Fatima Leel and come back on the other side to change views.
Easy, here you are among Wakhis!
In Passu there are turns for porters. At noon you ask your guesthouse, in the evening you meet your porters and guides, the day after you leave.
For a guide, you can count from 1000 to 1200 rps / day, not including tips. For a porter, it is up to 10 stages return up to Gushesham, 300 rps / day without food, 350rps/ day including food.
Inflation: Here more than anywhere else, there is a sense of organization and community. The prices per stage increase every year, as life does! It is also possible that the number of stages increase, instead of 10, it will be 11 or 12… don’t be surprised.
To go there: Passu is on the Karakoram Highway, 1 hour south of Sost (50 rps) and 1h30 north of Aliabad (Hunza, 80/90 rps). There are many guesthouses, no problems sleeping.
Warning : Price are going up a bit every year, so don't be surprised it's normal !
From April to November
Shopping: Aliabad, Sost. In Passu, a nice grocery well catered for the taste of trekkers.
Day 1
Janabad - Yashpirt Departure: 2400 m Arrival: 3170 m -280 m + 1045 m Distance: 19 km Length: 8 to 11 hours
Get ready for a long day. The best way is to be dropped by taxi (100-150 rps) at the departure of the trek in Janabad, avoid Chinese camp, the way is not very obvious. The road climbs gently to the bottom of a valley. After 45 minutes it leads over the back end of the glacier. It descends on a steep slope, before climbing switchbacks still very steep! Just at the top, a door blocks the passage to livestock. The next part is quieter until Yunzben. It is possible to arrive from Passu by the valley overlooking the hut; it is much longer (plan to spend a night in Yunzben) and without water!
The crossing of the glacier begins here on this side, the path is well marked. In the centre there is nothing, the advancing of the glacier erase all marks. It is not clear the cross it, it takes a long time and without reference point. Many trekkers crossing it alone got lost. Count between 1 h30 and 2 hours for the crossing, in full sunlight, it is very hard.
On leaving the glacier, it is steep and the path is obvious. Continue to climb saw tooth up Uzopirt. On the side, there are remains of lakes that have dried out a decade ago. After Uzopirt, the trail is more pleasant, it winds in the middle of willows and tamarisks.
After an hour, cross the desert bottom of a lake dried up. A watercourse comes from the right; just after continue 500 meters and take a trail going back on the hill, the view on the Batura Wall is spectacular. 15 minutes later come Yashpirt and its many shepherds’huts. Summer time, Passu inhabitants make Qurut (local cheese). There are many spots for tents.
Water : In Yashpirt, a spring. In Yunzben, go on the glacier, same for Uzorpirt.
Day 2
Yashpirt - Gushesham Departure: 3170 m Arrival: 3600 m -70 m + 500 m Distance: 12 km Length: 6 to 8 hours
After Yashpirt, turn left on one of the many trails leading down to the glacier; don’t cut straight, but along the hill. At the bottom of the path, you reach a grassy area, cross it going up along the moraine. Follow the creek, 1km, it opens onto a new plain, this is where Fatima Leel starts, a vast desert area; the crossing is long, in full sun. A new slope gives a turn on the glacier; the view over the first ice wall that comes down from Batura Wall is unbelievable.
Take a door for livestock, and continue, after a little less than 1h is Kulkil, ideal for a lunch break. Continue a little over 1 hour until Shilmin, Wertum trek starts here. Cross the desert area and the stream coming from the right, before climbing a hill just on the opposite side. After 20 minutes you are in Gushesham with its huts, high summer pastures Passu inhabitants.
Water : A spring in the camp. Some streams along the way
Days 3 & 4
Gushesham - Jalanabad Departure: 3170 m Arrival: 3600 m -1550 m + 350 m Distance: 31 km Length: 2 days Go back the same way.
Wertum Pass Mid July - late August Passu - Raminji 6 to 7 days
Same way back
Wertum pass
Mid July - late August
Passu - Raminji 6 to 7 days
Very difficult
Little practiced, it offers a unique view of the Batura Wall. It avoids a long and monotonous return to Passu. Starting from Shilmin, count 3 to 4 days to cross the pass and reach Raminji in the lower valley Chapursan. Many vehicles come back to Sost. Take a guide who knows the road well, a portion of the pass can be iced with a cornice, even late in the season.
Water : In the camps along the route, see with your guide.
Yuksh Goz pass
Mid July - late August
Passu - Zood Khun 9 to 13 days
Very difficult
It is a pass which has been opened by Alam Jan Dario. It is best to start from Zood Khun (pronounced Zoud Rune), in the valley Chapursan. Count 9 to 13 days to reach Passu. It is a pass that requires ropes and crampons (1 to 2 h during the whole way!). No crevasses, no risk of falling rocks, a new trek that awaits you, please contact Jan Alam, it is currently the only one to know the route.
Day 1 Zood Khun - Rawd 2 hr walk
Day 2 Rawd - Wyeen 6 hr walk
Day 3 Wyeen -- 4-hour walk
Day 4 Banaf Shain - Yeel base camp 6 hr walk
Day 5 Yeel base camp - Yuksh base camp 3 hr walk
Day 5 Yuksh base camp - crossing the pass - Yuksh Goz camp site 4 hr walk
Day 6 Yuksh Goz camp site - Lupzur zoor 5 hr walk
Day 7 Lupzur zoor - Guchesham 3 hr walk
Day 7 - 8 - 9 Back on Passu (see itinerary)
Day 10 - 11 - 12 - 13
To include on the route for rest and acclimatization.
An alternative to the Uzopirt path. At the level of Fatima Leel turn, take a trail on the glacier marked by cairns. After crossing the white glacier, step on the other side. Continue at the bottom of landslides, until Kirgus Washk, where it is possible to camp. The next day return to Janabad or Passu. This sector belongs to the people of Hussaini, it is less used than the other because more exposed below landslides.
WARNING Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.
Print it !
