It is easy, excepted for the Qarun Pass, requiring a previous acclimatization.

Special remark: this trek is ideal for a first try in Pakistan, easy to come back, all for a soft acclimatization.

It is better to stop in Mokhun, to hire a guide or a porter, and spend a night there. Be careful, it is not possible to do your shopping there, and you should have bought food in Aliabad (Hunza), or in Passu at Aman’s shop. Buses come back and forth between these destinations, to come from Sost in van it is 15 to 20 rps, from Passu 50 rps.
In case you chose to go with locals during this trek:

Your guide will ask around 1000 to 1200 rps before you leave. In Mokhun, some guides are students. Which implies sometimes, it was our case, he has never been to Qarun. Don’t forget to ask before some information about the stages. Be ready to pay between 900 and 1200 per day, including food but not tips (15 to 20 % of the total salary).

Porters, them, ask between 250 and 300 per stage, including food but not tips (15 to 20 % of the total salary). There are 6 stages.

How to get there?
From Sost, all types of buses, 11km, 20 min, 15 rps. From Passu: 40 km, 1h30, 5O rps.

Best time: From the end of May to the end of September.

Shopping in Sost, Passu & Aliabad.

Getting up at dusk, you will have time to walk under nice temperature. Follow a trail going up slowly on the river right bank, made for jeeps that can help you to avoid this part when scree slopes allow them (watch for rock falls). After half an hour, a bridge crosses Boibar River, near a sacred place, dedicated to « Sha Shams », ancestors, marked by small flags. Continuing your way, you can have a small break in front of the “blood” stained rocks by « Bilas » (Bad spirits), and walk by the « Lalazar » valley (meaning beautiful in Persian). Another bridge helps you cross the river to the right bank, and after a small hour, you reach Avgarch.

You will have all the time you need to discover these inhabitants, and if you are invited to drink tea, the possibility to see architecture very specific to Wakhi culture. Sat by the fire, you can see the opening to outside leaving the sun rays enter in a divine manner; this surrounded by a traditional ceiling in staggered rows, made like an eagle nest giving its name: the “bird’s nest.

PERSONAL NOTE: an explanation was given to us a few days later by the guide in Baltit Fort. According to its shape, the ceiling would have an anti seismic function.

Crossing the village on the trail remaining practicable by jeeps, you will soon reach a bridge; the trail appears horizontally on the other side. Follow it. Coming out on the side of a small plateau located just above, you have here a magnificent few on Avgarch, Tupopdan and Jurjur Khun e Sar. Boibar isn’t far. Less than 20 min later, this grassy stretch with abandoned huts on the right bank are the location of the first camp.

Water : In Boibar, a few springs come to join the main river; you only need to follow it going up.

Come back on the trail 400 to 500 m behind, and take a right one of the paths not clearly marked. After a steep 100 metres difference, you will reach a ridge, the trail goes back down to the river level, follow it. There are scree slopes to cross, going directly into the river. You might put your feet in the water! This difficult way lasts a good half hour on a distance inferior to 1km. Getting easier again, it leads you quickly to Xunza Yuk spring (queen’s spring), surrounded by many jupipers, it is the best place to relax.

After going back up an extremely small valley, take the trail ascending, continue during about 20 min up to Shepard’s’ huts, it is Pariyar (the enchanted plain). From there, between the many possible ways, choose the ones leading you to the hill on the right of the river. At the bottom, a basin and a few trees, a trail ascending is obvious, take it. If you are good at observing, at the 2hd third of the slope, going on the river side, an obvious trail will avoid you to go through the pass, about a 100m higher.

At any case, you will see Maidun a bit further, a stretch a bit small than the day before but very pleasant. Stay around the buildings on the grassy place.

Water : the camp is crossed by a spring.

Come back to Morkhund

An easy way will allow you to enjoy this incredible circus dominated by Tupopdan. Going up without crossing the river, across goats and sheep paths, you cross juniper forests which smell lingers in the air. Coming out of the wooden part, the lateral moraine summit is obvious to find. An hour walking and you are at the top, be careful though, these spurs are steep and unstable.

Leave the camp, and cross immediately the river. Watch out, in spite of its week flow, water is incredibly cold. Follow the moraine during 200 to 300 m, and take quickly in the slope side on your left to reach the ridge. Having reached, this high point, you will be able to have splendid views on Zardgaben and Tupopdan. An obvious way ascends along the valley.

When you lose it, always remain on the right without going straight on the slope. Getting on Qarun glacier moraine, go up the thalweg blocks, up to a small pass, where you will be able to find some water. The following part is a bit easier during a good km; the trail on a slight slope leads you to the bottom of the pass, going by some basic huts.

Still a little bit more than 200 metres up. Starting right away on a schist scree slope, follow the small valley, when the slope is not as steep, continue avoiding glaciated parts. Be careful, the pas sis not straight, when you have the possibility bear on your right and walk along the hillside. Go around the hill, it gets less steep and on the distance, you can see the cairns showing Qarun Pass. From there, an impressing view of the surrounding peaks and the Hispar Muztagh giants.

Water : A drop of clear water at the level of a small pass in the Qarun glacier lateral moraine.

For the intrepid trekkers, it is possible to reach Shimshal lower valley, in a slope that is, according to locals, extremely hard. 1 trekker for ages! Take a guide with you knowing the way down, or get a maximum of information before choosing this option. More than 2000 m down. When you reach the bottom, it is possible to get a jeep or leave for Passu the day after.