The trail is easy but the altitude makes it a moderate trek. An unsealed road leads you to Baba Gundi, and then it is the path used by caravans coming from Afghanistan. There is a possibility to go riding a horse (see with Alam Jan).

Guide : from 1000 to 1200 rps/day, excluding tips.

Porters : 300 rps/day without food, 350 including food. There are 8 stages. For the same price you can try to get a donkey, it is better for carrying luggage. Riding a horse, it is 1000 rps/day, plus 350/per stage for the person coming with you. On a yack back, it is 1500 rps/day, plus 350/per stage for the person coming with you (rates 2007, for the horse and the yack, contact Alam Jan beforehand: www.pamirtrails.com).

To get there : A special jeep costs from 2000 to 3000 rps. From Sost, a jeep goes everyday starting from midday from the Siashem Hotel. It leaves once loaded with passengers, sometimes around 4pm! Try to get information, the best way is finding the driver. It costs around 100 rps/person. To come back from Chapursan, vehicles leave before 6am, inquire.

Sleeping : There are many guesthouses all along the valley including that of Alam Jan in Zood Khun, "Pamir Serail", it is the best place to get your trek organized. Count around 300 rps/day, full board.

Other activities :
Cycling, you can rent mountain bikes at Pamir Serail. 2 bikes for 500 rps/day (rate 2007).
If you want to organize a Wakhi music concert (starting from 15 persons), Si vous voulez organiser un concert de musique Wakhi (à partir de 15 personnes), book a month in advance with Alam Jan, it is around 6000 rps for the evening (rate 2007).

May - mid october

Resupplying : Sost, in Zood Khun a small shop offering noodles for sales in 2007.

Get out of Zood Khun following the road that goes up the valley. After half an hour, a gate is on the way, a bit further, take a right on a well marked trail. Cross the plain that has been marked by a gigantic flood linked to Baba Gundi who would have punished the local crowd. A first bridge leads to the other side of the river. The area coming next is scattered by lakes with translucid water, a real pleasure, after half an hour cross a footbridge. Go on straight towards the road visible from the top of the hill, cross another stream, by foot this time and go up on the other side. The next part is long but follows the unsealed road up to Baba Gundi.

Register towards the local authorities, on the right when you get there. Just after the Baba Gundi Ziarat, a guest house is held by Alam Jan's father, a local character who will hug you as a warm welcome, he is still quite strong at almost 90 years old!

They cook for you, and usually you pay when you go back to Pamir Serail guest house...well this is how it worked in 2007.

Dragons killer, Baba Gundi is a saint who would have come from Tadjikistan, he is renowned for its miracles. A pilgrimage up to te Ziarat can cure from sterility, in return it is asked to kill a goat or more and offer its meat. Afghan caravans stop here, usually they exchange yacks or goats, against sugar and other foodstuffs. They don't go further unless one of the caravan members is ill and has to go and get cured in Sost.

Water : around the Ziarat

Right at the level of the Ziarat, go down the bank and cross the bridge. Walk on the left bank; it takes 1h30 to reach Yardz, a few huts surrounded by willows. Right after, a steep ascent, the trail follows the glacier offering wonderful views on the mountains. Walk one hour up to Jamal Erga, a few huts at the bottom of the ochre cliff.
Right after Jamal, walk 100 m, and where the cliff ends take the trail that goes up, go on straight, it leads to Chilinji An Pass. Another steep ascent ends on Jamal pastures, 20 m above. This summer pasture is in the middle of big blocks, cross it going up.
The trail is on the mountain side, after more than one hour, corss and go up meadows on the left bank, you can see the bottom of the valley. Still one hour walking to reach Irshad base camp, a hut and room to pitch your tent.

Water : at a stream level.

Get out of the camp going up a soft slope up to the fallen rocks on the right, cross them as well as the stream right in the middle. The path is well marked and goes around the mountain to reach the thalweg after 45 minutes. The following part is steep again and goes around a big mass of fallen rocks on the left, colors alternate between ochre, black and white. The pass is well marked and it is after more than half an hour that you can get a view of the Wakhan Corridor. It is the most beautiful pass we have seen in Pakistan, a color festival, just incredible. Don't cross the border et come back the same way.

Another pass to go to Afghanistan from Chapursan. It has been opened by Alam Jan and is said to be very beautiful. An itinerary to try as soon as possible.
Difficulty: very difficult, a snowy pass with some crevasses. No risk of stone fall or avalanches.

Count 5 days from Baba Gundi

Day 1 : Baba Gundi - Sekar Jerah Hilga : 4 hours
Day 2 : Sekar Jerah Hilga – Kila Goz : 4 hours
Day 3 : Kila Goz – Gulam Ali : 5-6 hours
Day 4 & 5 : Return

A magnificient panorama on the surrounding mountains. A trek easily accessible to discover Chapursan legends, one of the places where Baba Gundi killed a dragon, there would still be the remains of the animal.
Difficulty: easy to moderate.

Count 4 to 5 days from Zood Khun.

Day 1 : Zood Khun – Shigard Ishkuk : 5 hours
Day 2 : Shigard Ishkuk – Kush Juy : 5 hours
Day 3 : Kush Juy – Pamiri : 2 hours

An itinerary that makes you dreaming, the crossing of all the North of Afghanistan and Irshad pass to enter Pakistan by horse. It is possible, few made it and Alam Jan was part of the trip. Count more than 4 weeks for this itinerary. Once you are in the Wakhan, no more war, no more antipersonal mines... it is what is told about it of course!

Insurance:
Afghanistan is a country at war, it is not very likely that your insurance is valid, the only solution is not to have any problem! To warn and to organize rescue would be a dantesque task. It has to be extremely difficult to organize the evacuation of an injured person. You can still try to inquire... let us know.

Here is how it was in 2007:
First, you have to be in order with the two countries administrations; above all don’t try anything illegally.
In Pakistan, ask for an Afghan visa in Islamabad Embassy, it seems that they deliver longer visas than in Peshawar (it was the case for 2007). Right after, go to the Pakistany Interior Ministery and ask for an authorization to enter the territory from any Check Post (get your passport stamped in Sost), it takes 2 to 3 days. After you got it you can enter through Irshad Pass.

Afghan permit Authorisation of entering Pakistany territory from any Check Post.

Go to Afghanistan, by plane or by road (not very safe). Once you are in Kaboul, go to ATO (near the airport), it is a tourism organization, and ask for a permit allowing you to go to the Northern Areas. Don’t forget the photocopies of your passport for all thoses steps, it takes one day. ATO will give you a guide to get to Ishkashim, count 100 USD/day (inquire).
If you enter Ishkashim from Tadjikistan, there is no need to go through Kaboul for the permit. Of course, you will have asked beforehand and got in Pakistan the certificate that allows you to enter through Irshad Pass.

All those papers in hand, you can go. Get a jeep ready 100 USD/ day, negociate prices.

Day 1 : Kaboul – Tarar : 12 hours
Day 2 : Tarar – Faizabad : 12 – 14 hours
Day 3 : Faizabad – Ishkashim : 8 hours

From there, no more guide (in 2007)
Day 4 : Ishkashim – Kala Penza : 7 hours
Day 5 : Kala Penza – Salad Brogil : 4-5 hours.

The itinery is by horse from now on.
Count 1000 rps/day by hourse, a person bringing horse will come with you, negociate his salary to know if he is included or not in the 1000 rps before you hit the road.
Day 6 : Salad Brogil – Barak : 5 hours
Day 7 : Barak – Sang Derwishta : 6 hours
Day 8 : Sang Derwishta – Ween Ben : 6 hours
Day 9 : Ween Ben - Warm : 8 hours
Day 10 : Warm – Aq Jilgh : 8 hours
Day 11 : Aq Jilgh – Bozoi : 6 hours
Days 11 – 12 – 13 : Wakhan Corridor visit.
Day 14 : Bozoi – Lup Chug : 7 hours
Day 15 : Lup Chug – Adina Boï : 8 hours
Day 16 : Adina Boï – Irshad : 6 hours
Day 17 : Irshad –Irshad Pass–Irshad Base Camp
Day 18 : Irshad Base Camp– Baba Gundi : 4 – 5 hours
Day 19 : Baba Gundi – Zood Khun : 5 – 6 hours
Day 20 : Sost
For more information, contact Alam Jan Dario