The glacier is particularly difficult, the made uneven is quite important and requires acclimatization. The descent on the last day is very steep and exhausting.

It is possible to cross the glacier without any specific material, what locals say. Nevertheless, be aware that the trail is very exposed on its first part. Experiences you might hear from other people who already crossed it are vois, the glacier moving and changing making it harder to cross from one year to the other.

Tempting the crossing without a guide, you have to be properly equipped, know this environment and warn locals from Passu asking as many advises as possible. With a guide, crampons are a security you might not want to neglect.

To cross the glacier, it is better to hire a guide used to this crossing. Near Passu Inn, it seems that teenagers offer to come with you, pushed by their friends, to train as a guide. Their innocence contrasts with the difficulty of the walk. As for us, we asked to the Glacier Breeze, after mentioning we were not interested in their agency option. They introduced us to a good guide, Mr Aman Ulla (see authors). Be ready to pay around 1200 rps per day, including food but not tips (15 to 20 % of the total wage). Porters ask between 250 and 300 rps per stage, including food but not tips (15 to 20 % of the total wage). There are 6 stages.

How to get there ?

Passu is located between KKH, numerous buses com from Hunza and Sost all along the day.

From the end of may to the end of september.

Resupplying :

It is possible to go shopping in Passu, two shops, including that of Aman, are well catered. In Glacier Breeze, you can order dried food, a bit more expensive than on the menu but quite substantial.Ask not too spicy and order 2 days before because of electricity cuts!

If you don't go by jeep to the start of the moraine, many ways are possible. The easiest is probably to follow Karakoram Highway in direction of Hussaini. After arriving at the bottom of the descending false flat, you start walking up 300 to 400 metres and climb up on the other side on the bank. The trail rides up slowly, passing below cliffs. Just after them, a crossing announces a change of direction. Go on the left, on the laces of a slope much steeper.

From the top, you will see again KKH road. Climb up still, remaining at sight of the glacier, after 20 minutes you will reach an unsealed road coming from the left. This is where you can be dropped off by jeep. From this place, the view is awesome, the glacier unveals its splendor before ending up on the lake.

Continue along the channel, up to area quite flat located between the mountain and the lateral moraine, all the tubes here for irrigation have been carried on human backs! A new slope rises up. The way is quite obvious up to another flat section, a bit less comfortable than the one before. From there you will see a hut, this is the New Passu Gar. Two options are possible. First, stay near the New Passu Gar, that has been planned for trekkers, with many camping spots, area protected from the wind. Or second, go a bit further to the Old Passu Gar, 120 metres above, some shepherds huts with a pretty green area.

Water : a spring crosses New Passu Gar camp.

If you stayed at New Passu Gar, go up to the old one. Then take a right, go down along the moraine and enter the glacier. A rubalise is left all summer long, allowing you to cross the first part of this labyrinth. When you found it, you leave quickly a stony and dirty part, to enter an unreal world. You are walking on icy mountains overlooking abysses, in an atmosphere of deaf sounds. A hundred meters after this hard walking, the shapes soften up, helping you out to cross the glacier faster until you reach new ice walls blocking the way.

You still have to look for the next part. A difference in the level of the ground makes the way easier at some point. To find it, look at the trail going up on the other side. From the middle of the glacier, where it is easy to walk, go up 200 metres above, and then straight towards the side of the glacier. If you are hesitating, take your time to look for a point of view where you will figure out the way to go, be patient.

Coming out of the ice tongue, you will arrive in Luzhdur, dominated by incredible blue slates cliffs. The trail climbs immediately, it is well marked, the steep walk between junipers is very pleasant. Discovering the great extent of the glacier, you will reach plateaus. The slope gets softer and continues in the middle of summer pastures. From there, a little less than an hour walk is necessary. Don't go too far on the left handside, you would take the direction of Passu Sar base camp, but follow the cairns you see on the hills. A bit further, some buildings surrounded by stone walls mark Patundas camp.

When you get there, the view contrasts with the wlak you just made. 1300 metres below, Batura glacier is breathtaking. The spot designed for a small tent is even more spectacular, nested at the summit of a rocky cape. It gives an idea of what an eagle nest is. A 360° lookoot offer a priviledged panorama on the Shisper (7611m), Hispar Muztag, Kanjut Sar ( 7760m) and Trivor (7728m).

Water : It seems that the inhabitants of Ghulkin have built a water tank. We spent 2 hours looking for it, without finding it. We shared the same experience with another French trekkers couple, who were forced to go down on the same day. Take enough water or be ready to go and get some at Passu Sar base camp. You can have a very small spring early in the season.

Option 1 :
Go straight down towards Mulungeen, you can see from the camp. It is very steep but easy to spot. The trail starts below Patundas. Watch out for the grassy area, steep and slippery. Don't go too fast, there are many cliffs and only one itinerary!

Option 2 :
Go towards the crests that seem to dominate Passu Valley. About two kilometres later, one last peak crowned by cairns, this is where you have to go. When you get to the mineral part, it is important to remain on the crests and look. The trail doesn't go by no means on either of the two glacier. It is not easy to spot at first. You have to keep in mind it winds from one peak to the other. When you found it, it gets hard to be mistaken. It goes along the surrounding abysses, to lead you to the last summit. From there, the view is incredible and it is the last one you can enjoy. The descent starting here is well marked but terribly steep and exhausting. It ends up at the bottom of the valley, from where you can reach the Batura glacier through Yunzben or Passu going along the Zart Sar.

Another pretty descent to Yunzben, from there the trail is obvious. Going along the Batura Glacier, at a crossing you will have a possibility to easily reach KKH road where many buses will bring you to Passu. Taking the trail that goes up, you will easily walk and after half an hour, you will reach the KKH. A nice straight line, ending by a big rock. 25 metres earlier on your right, a block with prehistorical engravings displaying shepherds and pastoral scenes. From there, Passu will be reached in 15 minutes.

Water : Yunzben where it is possible to get turbid water going a bit further on the glacier.

From Patundas, take a trail going up and passing by of nipples located 500 metres higher on the left . After 20 minutes, the trail gets flatter. In the distance 2 hills rise up above a depression. One hour to cross the plain, the camp is located after one hour walk more.

Water : On the base camp